Potting Soils: Choose the Right Potting Soil
A good potting soil helps your container vegetable garden thrive!
By Steven Biggs
Choose the Best Potting Mix
Ever had potted plants that just seem to stall?
It could be the soil.
Good potting soil can be the difference between potted crops that grow like gangbusters...and those that don't seem to do anything.
This guide covers key soil ingredients, types of soil mixes, and tips to help you choose good soil. If you're a home gardener who wants to keep things simple but use the best soil mix, keep reading.
Key Takeaways
Potting soil is a soil blend made for the growing conditions in containers.
Despite the name, it often contains no garden soil.
Common potting soil ingredients include peat moss, compost, coir, perlite, and vermiculite.
There are specialty potting soils for specific plants and purposes.
You can buy ready-made potting soil or blend your own.
Understanding Potting Soil
Potting Mix vs. Potting Soil
Potting mix is made for the growing conditions in containers. Many have no soil. This mix has peat moss and perlite.
You might come across a few different names used for potting soil, including potting mix, growing medium (if you're reading technical sources), potting medium, soilless medium, and soilless mix. In British English, you'll also find term "compost" used for potting soil.
In a Nutshell
Potting soil is a soil mix made for plants in containers. Because the roots of plants in containers can't spread out to find water, moisture retention is important.
But even though we need the soil to hold moisture, we also need lots of little air pockets. That's called "aeration." Those little air pockets helps excess water move through the soil, while also leaving space for the soil to hold on to some of the water, until the plant roots can absorb it.
Some potting soil mixes—though not all—contain food for the plants. It could be in the form of a separate fertilizing product. But it might also come from one of the soil ingredients.
In short, a good potting mix retains moisture...yet drains well. It doesn't pack down with repeated watering.
Potting Soil vs. Garden Soil
Soil from the garden is rarely ideal for potted plants. That's because it often packs down with the frequent watering.
Garden soil can also contain weed seeds and diseases.
Key Ingredients in Potting Soil
Ask 10 gardeners for soil-mix recipes and you might come away with 10 different recipes. Like most things in life, there's more than one way to go about it.
But there are some ingredients that are frequently used to make commercial potting mixes. We'll look at some of them below.
Organic Ingredients
By "organic" we just mean something that was once living. Organic ingredients include peat moss, coir, compost, and composted bark chips.
Maybe before we even jump into these organic ingredients, let's not ignore the elephant in the room. There's an environmental footprint to potting soils. Peat moss is extracted from peat bogs, where carbon has been sequestered long-term. When we use peat moss for gardening, that carbon is quickly released back into the environment. Coir is touted an environmentally preferable substitute, though it's from a crop planted where there were once rain forests...and then it's shipped a long ways for a northern gardener like me.
If this environmental footprint is on your mind, here are some thoughts:
Don't waste potting soil—and certainly don't use it like a garden-soil amendment
Use your potting soil for more than a year where appropriate
Consider potting-soil ingredients such as home-made compost and composted forestry waste
Peat Moss
Peat moss is widely used because it holds water really well—like a sponge. Yet it still drains well. Lots of air pockets, yet still moisture that plant roots can take up.
When peat moss gets very dry, it repels water. (It becomes "hydrophobic" if you like the technical jargon.) So if you're mixing your own soil, moisten the peat moss beforehand. (Commercially prepared soil mixes often have an ingredient called a "wetting agent" that makes the peat less hydrophobic.)
Because peat moss is acidic, ground limestone is often added to peat-based potting soils. This helps to balance the pH. (And that's important because if the soil is too acidic, plants might not be able to take up the nutrients they need.)
Coir
Coconut coir is commonly used as an alternative to peat moss. We're talking about the fibre from coconut husks. As well as being used in place of peat moss, some gardeners blend coir with peat moss.
Coir-based soil mixes are sold in bags, as are peat-based soil mixes. But you can also find compressed bricks of coir. They're completely dry and very lightweight. These bricks are soaked in water before making a potting mix.
Compost
Here’s a close up of a potted bulb growing in a soilless coir mix. You can see the long fibres.
The nutrient content of a compost depends on what it's made from. For example, composted animal manures or composted seafood waste contain higher nutrient levels that something such as composted leaves (a.k.a. leaf mould.)
If you’re aiming to make your own peat-free soil mixes, leaf mould (composted leaves) is a traditional ingredient. Leaf mould breaks down more quickly than coir and peat.
Composted Bark Chips
Composted bark chips are sometimes added to soil mixes for larger plants. The bark bulks out the soil mix, while holding moisture.
Worm Castings
Worm castings—worm poo—add nutrients and microbial activity to a soil mix.
Inorganic Ingredients
With inorganic ingredient, we're mainly talking about "aggregates," things that add structure to the potting soil. These include perlite, vermiculite, sand, and grit. Light-weight materials such as perlite and vermiculite are common in commercially prepared soilless potting mixes.
Perlite
This popcorn-like, light, fluffy material is heat-expanded volcanic glass. It adds air pockets to the potting soil.
Vermiculite
Vermiculite is heat-expanded mica. It's like a sponge, able to hold water and nutrients. Because it’s so good at holding moisture, the soil is less likely to shrink when dry.
Sand
Common in home-made soil mixes to improve drainage and to add weight. Not so common in commercial mixes because it adds weight...and that makes shipping more expensive.
Vermiculite helps to retain moisture.
Perlite adds lots of air pockets to a mix.
Types of Potting Soils
Potting soil can be blended for specific types of plants (e.g. cactus), for certain plant needs (e.g. acid-loving plants, or "high porosity" for plants that don't like wet roots), and for specific uses, such as seed-starting.
Here are common types of ready-to-go potting soils:
All-Purpose Potting Mix
This high-porosity potting mix is made from peat and perlite.
As the name suggests, this sort of mix is intended for a wide range of uses and plants. Many commercial all-purpose blends (I've seen the name "general-purpose" used too) contain peat moss or coir, compost, vermiculite, and perlite.
High-Porosity Mixes
High porosity is just another way of saying it drains well.
This sort of mix is for plants that don't do well when the roots remain wet for too long. For example, if you're growing a potted lemon tree, good drainage is very important because the roots can quickly rot if the soil stays wet for too long.
(An interesting aside: I asked at my local garden centre why they're now stocking this sort of mix, which I only used to see in commercial horticulture. I was amused to learn that home cannabis growers favour it!)
"Organic" Potting Mix
It's worth mentioning that some companies market "organic" soils. These will contain the organic portion we talk about above (peat, coir, compost, etc.) meaning something that was once living.
But in this case, the word "organic" has an additional meaning: It means that the mix meets the standards of an organic certification organization. And that usually means that there's no wetting agents (something that makes the peat moss easier to wet) and that if there are fertilizers in the potting mix, they're approved by the certifying agency.
Seed-Starting Mix
The main difference with seed-starting mixes is that the texture is finer. Smaller vermiculite. No coarse bits in the peat moss. Perhaps no perlite. The idea is that a small, germinating seed isn't blocked by a hunk of something in your soil mix.
For what it's worth, I don't buy seedling mixes. They make sense for a commercial grower striving for a very high rate of success and uniformity. In my case, I always have ample seed for my smallish garden, so if the odd seed conks out because I'm using a general purpose mix and it's blocked by a big piece of perlite, it doesn't matter a bit.
Some people use an all-purpose mix, and simply screen out large bits, or break up the large bits while planting.
Homemade Potting Soil
What's the best potting soil? As I mention above, you're likely to find many different recipes for homemade potting mixes. The best mix depends on what you're growing, the growing conditions—and how you water! (I've met gardeners who know they're heavy handed with watering, so they blend especially well draining soilless potting mixes for their plants that don't tolerate wet roots.
If you don't need a lot of soil, you might find it easier just to use an off-the-shelf soil. But if you use quite a bit of soil, or if you have certain requirements, then making your own potting soil allows you to customize the ingredients and match them to the needs of your plants.
General-Purpose Soilless Mix Recipe
When it comes to general-purpose mixes, I keep my life simple, and just use an off-the-shelf product.
If you prefer to mix your own, here's a simple recipe you can start with:
2 parts peat moss (or peat moss substitute such as coir)
1 part vermiculite
1 part perlite
If you're using peat moss, add ground limestone so that the mix is less acidic. Add 30 ml of limestone for a 10 litre pail of soil.
One other tip: If the peat or coir is very dry, wet it first, before mixing with the other ingredients.
And one more tip: Using peat? Get "horticultural" or "blond" peat. Peat at the bottom of a peat bog has decomposed more, so it has shorter fibres. Because of the shorter fibres, it packs down more quickly. The peat that’s higher up in the bog has a lighter colour and longer fibres. It’s called “blond” peat. The blond peat is what you want because it gives a soil with more air pores, but at the same time, it holds water well.
It’s usually the dark peat that I see for sale at garden centres around here—because it’s less expensive and many people don't know the difference.
Container Veg Gardening Course
Soil-based Potting Mix
I use a soil-based potting mix for larger outdoor potted plants. Here's my mix for growing potted fig trees. It's good for all sorts of other potted plants too. With the garden-soil component, this mix holds more moisture. And the garden soil and sand both make it heavier, so that large plants are less likely to topple in the wind.
1 part garden loam
2 parts soilless potting mix (I prefer a commercial-grade of soilless potting mix, see my tips on soil-shopping, below)
1 part sand
Add 30 ml of limestone for a 10 litre pail of the mix
If you want to read more about potting soil for fig trees, here are my recommendations for potting soil for fig trees in pots.
Shopping for Potting Soil
It’s buyer beware when it comes to small, domestic-sized bags of potting mix. Some is great…some is terrible.
A simple approach that I recommend to all my students is to buy potting soil mixed for commercial producers. The quality is consistently good. Which makes sense, because commercial growers know good soil and won't settle for less.
Commercial potting mix is sold in "bales" that are 107 litres (3.8 cubic feet). And the soil within is dry and compressed. So it's a fair bit of soil, but I think it's worth it.
Summary
Good potting mix is a key to success with container gardening. There are many special-purpose mixes available. In many cases, a general purpose mix works quite well. If it's an option, buy a large, commercial-sized bag; the quality is more consistent. When mixing your own potting soil, remember that there are many recipes--and that what's the best for you depends on how you water and what you're growing.
If you’re interested in potting soil because you’re growing vegetables in containers, grab this container veggie guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
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What are the key ingredients in a good potting soil?
A potting soil has an organic component such as peat moss, coir, or compost. This is bulked out with an aggregate such as perlite, vermiculite, or sand.
Can I reuse old potting soil?
Absolutely. The structure of the soil breaks down over time as the organic part (sphagnum peat moss, coir, compost) breaks down. And when it does, the soil will pack down. But you can usually use soil for more than one year. Some gardeners reuse potting soil by refreshing old soil with new soil. (Don't reuse soil that had diseased plants in it, though.)
Does old soil go bad?
Old soil does not go bad. But when peat moss gets very dry, it can be difficult to rewet—it repels moisture. So when using old, very dry soil, allow time for moisture to spread around...and be prepared to get your hands dirty by mixing it.
What is the difference between potting soil and garden soil?
Potting soil is made for plants growing in containers. It drains well. Garden soil is more likely to pack down.
What is a good potting mix for lemon trees?
Root rot is a common problem with potted lemon trees because they don't tolerate wet soil. Look for a “high porosity” type mix. If you're mixing your own potting soil, make it well draining.
Here's a post that helps you know when to water your lemon tree.
What is the best potting soil for fig trees?
It depends on how you water, the size of your fig tree, and the type of container you're using.
Here's a whole article that explains potting soil for fig trees.
Do I need a special soil for wicking beds and sub-irrigated planters (SIPS)?
Use a soil that wicks moisture well. That's because with this type of container there's a reservoir at the base, and water wicks upwards.
If you're buying soil, you won't find "wicking" on the label. If in doubt, remember that the large, commercial bales of potting soil are usually a good bet.
Here's an article that explains sub-irrigated planters and talks about suitable soil.
What about sterile soil?
A heat treatment kills most organisms in the soil: Insects, weed seeds, and diseases.
In most cases, this is not necessary. Healthy soil is living, with microbial processes going on. But when it comes to starting seeds indoors, sterile soil can be beneficial because seedlings are more susceptible to damping off diseases than large plants.
I've heard of people wrapping moist potting soil in foil, and putting it in the oven at 200°F for 20 minutes. Never tried it myself...I know my family wouldn't approve of the smell. However, I have had students tell me they sterilize soil in the BBQ!
Peat-based soilless potting mix is acidic. While not sterile, it's less likely to have disease organisms than something like your home-made compost.
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Interested in Adding Worm Castings to Your Soil?
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Move Over Bedding Plants...and Try These Edible Garden Plants Instead
Replace some of your bedding plants with edible plants! Find out how to choose suitable crops to use as bedding plants.
by Steven Biggs
A Few Plants for Edible Landscaping
Attractive? Check.
Low maintenance? Check.
Edible? Check.
The peppers were the finishing touch in my front-yard edible landscape. Right by the sidewalk. A nice pop of colour.
What had been my front lawn three months before was an edible front yard—edible plants including salad greens, herbs, vegetables, fruit bushes, and edible flowers.
I was enjoying the mix of colour, height, and texture as I popped one of those peppers into my mouth.
Sound the fire alarm. My face lit up scarlet. I grabbed a basket and, between hiccups, plucked all those hot peppers…worried about hot-pepper misadventures with the school kids that go by twice a day.
So the hot peppers were not a home run.
But with those little scorchers harvested, I left the pepper plants. They had dark green leaves and compact form. Nice bedding plants nonetheless. Just not next to the sidewalk.
If you’re interested in edible plants for edible landscaping, keep reading. This post gives you design ideas and top crops for using as edible bedding plants.
What’s a Bedding Plant?
Bedding plants are display plants for seasonal plantings. Here’s a good example, at Butchart Gardens in BC.
Bedding plants are display plants for seasonal plantings. Garden bling. So choices usually combine fast-growing, colour, and resilience.
Some, like coleus, have fabulous foliage. Many have showy flowers. Commonly they’re flowering annuals—though not always. Others, like fuchsia, are tender perennials.
But what they have in common is that they’re typically transplanted into a garden to give an immediate show. Then they’re yanked out at the end of the season.
Lots of common vegetable-garden and herb-garden plants can fit the bill as bedding plants in an edible landscape.
What Makes a Good Bedding Plant?
A good bedding plant is low maintenance. It doesn’t need pruning or staking. You don’t need to hold its hand.
For summertime plantings, a good bedding plant also performs well through the heat of the summer.
Why Use Edible Plants as Bedding Plants?
Using edible plants to make ornamental plantings—instead of traditional bedding plants.
I have nothing against flowers. I go overboard planting flowers every year.
But like many home gardeners, I never have enough space to grow all of the plants I want to grow.
So if I can kill two birds with one stone—edibles for both eating and appearance—count me in. Give me space in the flower garden for some veggies…I'll make it into an edible landscape.
Bedding Plants Through the Seasons
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Most ornamental bedding plants are planted after the last spring frost, but there are exceptions. The most common is pansies—which shine on despite a frost.
(If you didn’t know, pansy flowers are edible!)
You might see plantings of ornamental kale and cabbage in the fall. They soldier on through fall frosts while most bedding plant snivel.
(You can eat ornamental cabbage and kale—though they’re bred for looks, not as gustatory delight.)
Just as plant choice can keep the curtains open longer for a flower garden, choosing the right edible bedding plants keeps an edible landscape looking tip-top into the fall.
Designing Edible Landscapes with Edible Bedding Plants
Swiss chard hanging out with some ornamental bedding plants.
The way you use bedding plants depends on the situation and your taste (sorry about the pun.)
My advice? Be wildly creative and do something that your neighbours aren’t doing. Gardening can be more than practical; it can be creative, too.
(It should be creative, that’s the fun part!)
To get your creative juices going, here are three broad ways of using bedding plants in your edible landscape:
Formal. Think of public display gardens with formal flower beds and symmetrical patterns. (If you’re a detail person, this might be up your alley.)
Informal. This is where you’re getting playful with colour and texture and not constrained by having one big formal flower bed. Like icing on a cake, you “ice” the garden bed…a smear of bedding plants here and there.
Carpet. I once worked at a company where we made the company logo from bedding plants. That’s carpet bedding. We’re talking about a tightly planted, intricate pattern. Like painting with plants.
5 Edible Bedding Plants to Start With
Here are five edible bedding plants you can start with. There are lots more (including the pansies and kale I mentioned above.) But these five edible plants are all work horses, easy to find, and give a good mix of colour and texture.
Swiss Chard. Such an underrated plant. While so many of its leafy-green brethren make haste to flower and die, Swiss chard just grows leaves all summer. And along with green varieties, there are red, orange, yellow—even striped red-and-white varieties. Find out why Swiss chard is also a great choice in the fall garden.
Swiss chard. This underused leafy green makes an excellent bedding plant.
Parsley. The world needs more parsley. Seriously. Beyond garnishing a cheese tray or bulking out your bruschetta mix, parsley is a performer in the edible landscape. Great for edging borders. Planted in larger blocks, curly-leaf parsley is a brush-stroke of texture. And it lasts nicely even as fall frosts fell heat-loving crops.
Parsley. A top-notch bedding plant.
Cardoon. How many edible plants can you describe as elegant? This one has a touch of class. I was riveted when I saw cardoon punctuating the landscape of the historic Spadina House mansion in Toronto. What a bold beauty this plant it! Find out more about cardoon.
Cardoon. An elegant bedding plant!
Basil. From compact, little-leaf varieties to more gangly family members, you can choose from quite a range of plant and leaf sizes. And for leaf colour, remember there’s red and purple, as well as green. The compact basils are great for carpet-style designs. Keep in mind that basil, after a spell of cold fall weather, will quickly pack it in for winter.
Basil. So many choices…here’s a shot from a trial garden.
Eggplant. Compact plant. Attractive flowers. Beautiful fruit. Eggplant can be front and centre in an edible landscape. I love the small-fruited varieties with interesting colours, such as red-fruited eggplant or the skinny striped ones. Eggplant as a bedding plant? I bet your neighbours aren’t doing this!
Eggplant. Even if you don’t love eggplant, you have to admit it’s beautiful!
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Courses
Here’s a course that guides you through creating an edible garden you love. It’s my ode to edible gardening. You’ll find out how to think outside the box and create a special space. Get the information you need about a wide range of edible plants.
Planning a Kitchen Garden that Awes (in Purple!)
Make a kitchen garden with a mix of your favourite crops.
By Steven Biggs
Grazing the Kitchen Garden
How to make a kitchen garden you love.
My family doesn’t think it’s unusual to hear the back door open and close as I cook supper.
They see me come in with a fistful of herbs. Or a colander with vegetables, fresh fruit, and edible flowers.
I think of it as grazing: Picking what’s ready from my kitchen garden: Small portions of a wide variety of ingredients for our meal.
What’s ready in the garden inspires what I make for supper.
Along with a varied, continuous harvest, there’s something else I think about when planning a kitchen garden: Creativity. A great kitchen garden touches the senses. Taste is obvious, smell too. But there’s also touch, sound, and sight.
If you’re looking for great kitchen gardening ideas, keep reading. I have ideas for you about how to make a kitchen garden you love.
Planning a Kitchen Garden – and Having Fun Doing it
The planning stage of gardening can be intimidating. There’s crop spacing, crop timing, succession crops, crop rotation, and more…
So before I throw out ideas for you, here’s my top advice: Have fun. The compost pile takes care of things that don’t go as planned.
Next suggestion: Be playful with style and design because it’s a personal thing. A kitchen garden plan is a personal creation. (And the fun part is that every year you can create something new!)
What is a Kitchen Garden?
How is a kitchen garden different from a vegetable garden? It depends who you ask.
When I think of a kitchen garden I think of a mix of edible plants including herbs, vegetables, fruit, edible flowers, and flowers for cutting. That sets it apart from a traditional vegetable garden geared towards large harvests for canning, freezing, and storing.
Create Your Own Unique Edible Landscape
That fits for your yard, and your style!
Creative Kitchen Gardens
More than a Vegetable Garden
It was late fall and this kitchen garden was getting tired, but the playful design and colour theme still shone through.
However you define a kitchen garden, don’t just make it functional. Make it something that gives you a jolt of delight when you see it.
For example, this fall I took a trip to the William Dam Seeds trial garden. It was late in the season and things were past their prime. But I was still riveted by what remained of their playful purple-themed garden. It was a mix of flowers, veg, and herbs.
Purple kale, purple basil, purple cauliflower, purple beans…and more.
There were lots of edibles. There was also a hefty dose of flowers. And the garden gave a wallop of colour. It had height. It was fragrant. And it was a playful pinwheel design.
My daughter Emma and I were intrigued by the use of patterns and shapes in the Food Garden at the Montreal Botanical Gardens.
I’m not suggesting a purple-themed garden for everyone. I mention the purple-themed garden to help you think about making your kitchen garden special for you.
So think about:
Colourful crops
Texture
Shapes and patterns
Plant-themes (e.g. lots of lettuces!)
Here’s a fun idea…a dragon-themed garden for kids (seriously! See below.)
Creativity is what makes kitchen gardens shine.
Don’t be afraid to play with texture in the kitchen garden! Here’s an X of celery between cabbage plants at the Food Garden at the Montreal Botanical Gardens.
Purple-Themed Fun
The purple trial garden reminded me of the purple-themed kids garden my daughter Emma included in her book Gardening with Emma.
From the book Gardening with Emma.
The gardener, Oliver, was 7 years old. He told his parents he wanted a purple-themed garden.
When Emma got in touch with him for the book, Oliver was growing these purple crops:
Eggplant
Kale
Basil
Broccoli
Peppers
Chives
Tomatoes
Beans
More Colourful Edibles
I was thinking about Oliver’s purple kitchen garden, and jotted down purple crops in my garden that we can add to his list of purple crops:
Lavender
Purple peas
Purple mustard
Purple bok choy
Bronze fennel (OK, looks purple to me!)
Purple-leafed elderberry
Purple asparagus
Purple might or might not be your jam. If it’s not, think about what delights you.
Where to Put a Kitchen Garden
Every yard is different. Every gardener is different. So there’s no one-size-fits-all answer when it comes to the best location for a kitchen garden.
But my top advice is to think about how you use your yard. Here are questions to think about:
Can it be somewhere close to the house if you want to dart outside for ingredients?
Do you want to see the kitchen garden from the house?
Where do you have growing space available?
Where in your yard are the growing conditions suited to a garden?
Kitchen Garden Plants
My own kitchen garden has annual vegetables, perennial vegetables, herbs, edible flowers, cut flowers, and fruit trees.
I’m a big believer in weaving flowers into a garden. They looks nice. They attracts pollinators. And they attract beneficial insects (small parasites and predators that help to keep pest populations in check.)
A summer succession crop of lettuce between established cabbage and artichoke crops.
Some crops (e.g. lettuce) don’t last the whole season. As you choose crops, take these short-lived crops into account and plan for succession crops to follow them. (Here’s a guide to succession crops.)
Most importantly, grow things you like to eat. Then add in a few new crops to broaden your palate.
Interested in edible perennials? Check out these edible perennials.
Growing vegetable crops in containers? Here are my favourite container vegetable crops.
Kitchen Garden Layout
How to Start a Kitchen Garden
Layout is a personal thing. I geek out at the mention of traditional French potager gardens.
My kitchen garden doesn’t look quite like a potager—but I took inspiration from that style as I added brick walkways, terracotta pots, and a mix of edibles and flowers for cutting.
Your kitchen garden layout might include raised beds, a cold frame, and large containers. It's up to you.
What is a Potager Garden?
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Think of it as a traditional French kitchen garden. Potager gardens blend colourful flowers, salad greens, fresh fruits, and herbs. There's often symmetry. There's often a focal point.
Oklahoma garden designer Linda Vater loves to create elegant edible gardens. Her work is inspired by the tradition of the potager garden. Get Linda’s tips for making an elegant edible garden.
I love this: Landscape architect Jennifer Bartley says, “The potager is more than a kitchen garden; it is a philosophy of living that is dependent on the seasons and the immediacy of the garden.” Get Jennifer’s tips for designing a kitchen garden.
Spacing in a Kitchen Garden
Experiment with Spacing
Recommendations on seed packets are often geared towards field-scale production, and towards fully mature crops. If you’re planning to harvest baby lettuce, it needs less space than a large, mature head of lettuce.
Another way to look at spacing is through the lens of rows versus blocks. I talk about rows and blocks in this article with 7 garden layout ideas.
Top Kitchen Garden Tip
Be wildly creative.
More Fun Theme Gardens
Fun Kitchen Garden Ideas for Kids (and Adults too!)
In Gardening with Emma, my daughter has a rainbow spread of veggies. Perhaps a rainbow planting in your kitchen garden?
From the book Gardening with Emma.
How About a Dragon-Themed Garden?
Emma and I gave a talk about kids gardening once and the next day a parent emailed to say that her son came home inspired to grow a dragon-themed garden!
Any kids you want to inspire to garden? Get ideas for dragon-themed plants.
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More Kitchen Gardening Ideas
Articles and Interviews
For more posts about how to grow vegetables and kitchen garden design, head over to the vegetable gardening home page.
Courses: Edible Gardening
Want more ideas to make a great kitchen garden? We have great online classes that you can work through at your own pace.
Kitchen Garden Consultation
Book a virtual consultation so we can talk about your situation, your challenges, and your opportunities and come up with ideas for your kitchen garden.
We can dig into techniques, suitable plants, and how to pick projects that fit your available time.
